Spring 2024 Renulek Doily part 2

So I'm making progress on this doily!

Again, this is the spring 2024 doily by a tatting designer named Renulek. 

This is rounds 1- 4 done.

I certainly struggled with the flower-like motif on the 4th round. I think I made it harder than it needed to be. 😅 I chose to make the flower motif in two colors and... let's just say I did the best I could. Oh well, I survived it! The joins between the rings aren't clean but that's because I was doing something different.

I am not sure when I will block it so that it stays flat. I should probably do that within the next few rounds. I'm learning that with tatting, it often helps to block your work even though it isn't done yet.

I have so many projects I'm working on right now, but I hope to have updates to share soon.

Bpd

Spring 2024 Renulek doily

This is such a great doily. Renulek makes such great tatting patterns.

Spring 2024 doily, rounds 1 to 3:

I am tatting the spring 2024 Renulek doily. I made another of their doilies a few years ago. It probably took me a year to make in size 20 thread, and it came out over 26" in diameter. (I never measured it!)

I'm expecting this doily to be just as big. That's ok with me. I've gotten comfortable with size 20 thread.

This spring 2024 doily is made with four colors of Lizbeth size 20 thread. I was inspired by all of the doilies I saw on instagram and in tatting groups. I usually don't do much colored tatting or lacemaking.

I finally have enough tatting shuttles that I can have fun with color coding my thread to my shuttles!

Subsequent rounds will be coming soon!

Ffn!

Renulek collar

It took me quite a bit to tat this collar. I actually finished this collar in the late summer of 2023. It took me several more months to actually block the collar. I think I used a size 30 bit of scrap tatting and then used size 20 aunt lydia's crochet cotton for the rest. It's not too visible, lol.

Like always with my collars, I made this one to fit a more modern neck line, just in case I want to sew this on to a piece of clothing. 

Its lovely! The pattern is by Renulek. They have a blogger blog here: Renulek

I had to open up all of the picots during wet blocking. I wasnt happy about that, but it is what it is. I had to open up the picots because I was using a relatively drapey 3 ply cotton, as opposed to a more stiff and sturdy 6 ply crochet thread. Its becoming harder to find strong and sturdy crochet thread for a decent price in  the US, so I'm using what I can get.

I intend to make more of their patterns! I've already done one, a doily in Aunt Lydia's size 20 crochet thread.

They have a lovely "Spring 2024 napkin (doily)" that I want to tat next. Its available in their etsy shop or released on their blog as design notes.

Happy crafting! 

-BP

Mary Stuart Collar, Antique Crochet

This is an antique crochet collar pattern. I think the pattern is from prior to the 1860s. Like many antique patterns, I don't know how well it has been proofread or test crocheted. A lot of these antique patterns havent been.

It's called the Mary Stuart collar.

I'm using DMC cebelia size 30 thread with a 1.1mm hook.

I like working antique thread patterns. The problem is, I dont like ruffles. Ruffled fabric is definitely an 1800s fashion! The collar probably is designed to be starched so that the ruffles and lace stand out. However, I dont have the patience to starch many of my patterns. I just wet block them and that's it.

I'm mostly following the spirit of the pattern. In this picture, I am doing a sc along the neck edge to stabilize it. The pattern asks for one more row of shells after this.

The book as of this date is available on Google Books.

See you later!

-BP

Sweater Blowout and Mending

Hello fiber loving folks!

I hope your holiday season has started off well. I'm here trying to prepare for art shows and sales, while still studying my online courses.

And of course, there is holiday shopping to do for friends, family and myself. I am topping off for myself on supplies I need to keep creating and selling.

In the meantime, its sweater season! I'm frantically knitting a Central Park Hoodie (I will show it later). I love hoodies because they keep my neck and head warm, instead of me having to wear a hat and scarf around. That's two less items for me to remember when I'm going out the door.

Honestly, I should make time to inspect my sweaters each year. Twice a year if I had the time.

This is a top down circular yoke crocheted sweater made from scrap yarn and a recycled thrift store sweater. The body is done in half double crochet (US). The colors are navy for the body, and greens and teals for the yoke, hem and cuffs. I improvised the entire thing from a picture. 

This is my second time having to mend it, but it had served well over these years.

This is the underarm mending:

I have no more of the original sweater obviously, so I had to use a similar yarn for the underarms. Patons Classic wool in teal?

I'm going to use a handspun merino wool blue in a slightly lighter shade to fix the elbow hole. I will reinforce the other arm at the same time. Wish me luck!

-BPD

Car Blanket/Pillow pattern colors

Hello folks.

These past two years, I have been working on de-stashing and using up my yarn and thread. This has involved a lot of knitting, crocheting and tatting of projects. I've even donated some yarn, patterns and supplies to specific charities. I have enough needles to supply a small beginner knitting or crochet class.

I've decided to let someone else take that on, by donating my excess supplies to community centers and programs.

However, sometimes you want to make usable things for yourself with all that yarn. Understandable, right? My stash is from family members, gifts, and from when I went a bit crazy as a new fiber artist buying pretty yarn wherever I saw it, especially on sale.

I think I am mostly over this. I don't know how far I want to go with de-stashing. I still have to spin up a lot of fiber, so I shouldn't have problems finding yarn in the future!

I bought quite a few odds and ends of Lionbrand Wool Ease Thick and Quick over the years. It's fun to experiment with. It technically does knit up quick, as people say.

However, I have to modify how I knit in order to use it.

I am an 'English Flicker' style knitter. I have also been slowly decreasing the needle size I use along with the thickness of yarn I use. With yarn this thick (super bulky), I have to knit continental, which can be uncomfortable and may even begin to make my hands sore. It's not as fun. It's not like I knit continental slowly through.

Anyways, the project is a simple garter stitch car blanket. You know, for emergencies. You fold it in thirds in order to tuck it into a pouch on the blanket itself. 

This post is about looking at needle sizes and color combinations to use up all this yarn I have.

I like this color combo as a color progression.

This second picture is my second choice. I like breaking up colors that are close on the color wheel. 

I suppose we'll see what combo I end up doing.

My problem is, I dont like using US size 13 needles with this yarn. I thought I had US size 15. But I guess not. I have a US size 17. I'll try both the 13 and the 17 and see which fabric I like better.

Until next time, Happy crafting! 

Octagonal scrap tatted doily

I could have sworn that I saw this pattern somewhere but I cant find it. The pattern was a bunch of tatted octagon flowers connected and joined. All of the motifs were from scraps. I will give you the pattern below. 

I can't have been dreaming it!

Oh well. I reproduced the idea from memory. 

These are a bunch of motifs made from scrap size 10 thread from other projects. 

Some are modern threads, like aunt lydia's size 10 for the red and navy. Others... are vintage threads from the 1960s to 1990s (I think.)

Here's a picture of me trying to squeeze the last amount of pink thread onto a cheap generic shuttle.

I did the decoupage myself. I forgot where I got the paper from. But it matches nicely, right? 

Pattern

Each motif is eight sided. Rings only.

Ring 1: 8- 4- 4 -8

Ring 2: 8 + 4 - 4 -8

Final ring (8): 8 + 4 -4 +8. (Join the last picot the first ring with a folded join).

Each ring is then joined at two points to its sibling motif.

There should be a square shaped space between the finished joined motifs.

Make it with me, if you have any scraps. It should be fun! 

-JT

Jan Stawasz Doily 1 WIP

This is a very easy doily. Made in size 10 lizbeth white thread. The stitch definition is great, but the thread is not good for hiding ends. Quick tatted rounds!

This is an earlier picture of the doily. I will post the final in another post.

For this doily, I have taken to using the nail polish trick: knotting the ends and putting nail polish on the knot so it doesnt come unraveled. With a 3 ply thread, I would try weaving the ends, but Lizbeth thread is just so rigid.

I messed up so I had to un-tat an entire motif repeat. But since the thread is so smooth, it wasnt too bad to reopen all the rings. I just put on some podcasts to do it.

Unfortunately, the doily is just named 'Doily' in the book. I cant even give it a name. Maybe Jan Stawasz's 6 petal center doily? He reused motifs and patterns a lot so I don't even know! Maybe someone else knows what the official name for this pattern is.

I'm going to have to block and maybe iron this doily. At least I don't have to pull out the picots like I do with other threads. When a pattern has a ton of picots and it's a soft thread,  it's great to tat with but awful to block.

Anyway,  I've already used up one ball of Lizbeth thread. I'm using half a ball more. I may weigh the doily to see how much thread I used in making this. 

Farewell for know,

-JT

Tussah silk spinning for a laceweight shawl

This is what I'm currently spinning. At least, one of my current spinning projects.

I have been working on this for several years on and off. I am spinning light laceweight natural colored tussah silk, in hopes to use it to knit a shawl. It is likely less expensive for me to spin my own silk laceweight that is fine enough for gossamer shetland, estonian and orenburg lace shawls.

The only silk gossamer weight I can find that is weaving cones, and it's often to heavy and very expensive. Maybe I'll buy it one day.

Here's my current spin! 

I'm using both a top whorl spindle and a supported spindle to try and get as thin as I can. It helps to make the project portable.

On the cardboard bobbin, you can see mulberry silk. I'm doing the same thing with it. I just need to respin it to make it thinner. I like working with the tussah silk more. It seems to be less slippery and has more 'tooth' to it.

The supported spindle is a dpn with a bead I bought. The top whorl spindle is a dowel with a hook and some polymer clay. I had fun making them and they spin very fast, but you have to practice a lot to make a good, fast, and balanced spindle.

One day I do plan to see how actual Victorian silk spindles work. They're like a bicone at the top,  and taper down. They are essentially top whorl spindles.

Anyway, I have more craft stuff to show, including tatting! Take care for now,

-JT

Crochet Terms: US to UK translation

Knitting terms seem standardized in the west from place to place, and country to country. Some stitches like moss stitch do mean different things in different countries.

However, crochet terms are a bit more difficult. Crochet is more of a recent craft, as it is generally 200 years old.

Crochet has different terminologies based on who created the pattern. UK, Europe and places exposed to crochet from these regions will have one, and the US and countries exposed to US terminology will have another. Here is a basic translation list between the two crochet terminologies.

US--------------------------------------UK

Chain (ch)                                      Chain (ch)

Slip stitch (sl st)                             Single crochet (sc)

Single crochet (sc)                         Double crochet (dc)

Half double crochet (hdc)              Half treble crochet (htc or htr)

Double crochet (dc)                       Treble crochet (Tc or trc)

Treble crochet (Tc or trc)               Double Treble crochet (dtr or dtc)

Double treble crochet (dtr or dtc)  Triple treble crochet (ttc)

etc.

And the list proceeds in a similar fashion with longer stitches. These are the basic stitches, hopefully this list helps.

Ways to tell if a pattern is using UK terms:

Mercifully, many pattern creators have this above mentioned key on their patterns. Some don't, and oftentimes, antique patterns don't have equivalent stitches listed.

This is one way that I'm able to tell if a pattern uses UK or US terms. First, look at the picture. Does it look like it has US single crochet? Does it look like it has slip stitches?

A pattern often starts with a chain X amount of stitches. After that, it will often say sc or dc. Do the first stitches in the picture look like sc or dc? If they look like sc but the pattern says dc, its a UK pattern. If the stitches look like sc and the patterns says sc, its a US pattern.

Another way to tell involves using old booklets. Old booklets from the Antique Pattern Library, Archive.org, and other sources often tell where the booklet was manufactured. It may say London, or Bristol (UK cities), or some similar place. If so, its safe to assume that UK terminology will be used.

If it says Chicago Ill, Boston MA, Florence MA, (US cities) or the like, its safe to assume that US terminology will be used.

If its a Canadian publication, (cities like Halifax, Toronto, etc), it seems to be a tossup on what terminology is used. Modern patterns will more likely have US style terminology, and antique patterns will more likely have UK style terminology.

Non-english language terminology can be translated from antique patterns as well, such as French. The translation will say something like 'single stitch', or 'double stitch'. In that case, it is harder, but again, look at the picture for clues.

In future, I'm hoping to have these stitch equivalents in other languages as well. God luck!

-jtp

Donating supplies to Charity pt1

I'm having an executive disfunction day, along with some stomach pain. Its adding to my confusion on how I should continue my room organization plans and donation of excess items.

I've decided to work on something small. I have more than enough knitting needles and crochet hooks (thanks to thrift stores and online/in store sales.)

(a pink plastic box full of various metal knitting needles and some crochet hooks.)

I've had it in my mind to donate my excess supplies for a while to charity programs. I think knitting needles and crochet hooks are too precious to end up in regular thrift stores. They can give young people, elderly, or other adults the chance to learn a lifelong skill that can give them peace.

(purple yarn I've begun winding on a spare wooden panel because I cant find my niddy noddy right now.)

So, I've started winding up yarn I wont use in preparation to donate it with some needles. I plan to label them as best I can for those people with wool allergies.

I'm 99% sure these are going to Pine Ridge Reservation, and perhaps neighboring native reservations. In the ravelry group, they mentioned craft supplies are things that would be welcome.

I am voluntarily downsizing my needle stash as I find needles that I like using. I have learned what types of needles I use for what types of projects: lace, cables, textured stitches, sweaters, shawls, Tunisian crochet, socks and more.

I think these would be great for beginners.

I just have to find the right address on the ravelry forums. There are so many addresses to send things to. I also have to make a note of what I am donating. I like staying organized.

Sometimes a set of needles or a yarn really wasnt made for you. I've learned that over time.

Have you been doing any de-stashing later?

Ttyl,

-JT

Rainbow Socks with Recycled Cuffs

My recycled and rainbow yarn socks!

These socks are knit on US 1 (2.25mm) and US 1 (2.5mm) needles. I prefer knitting my socks on double pointed needles. I've tried the single circular method, and I've tried the double circular method. I dont like these methods for knitting socks, I dont know why. I keep coming back to double pointed needles for all my small circumference projects, and lately, some of my large circumference projects! (Shetland knitting belts anyone? I'll show you in an upcoming post.)

I almost exclusively use metal DPNs. I can no longer stand wood or bamboo, but as you can see from the photos, I am making due by mixing in my wood and bamboo needles.

64 stitches, my standard sock stitch number.

I picked up this yarn for either $2.50 or $5 at Webs yarn store years ago and it's been in my stash for a few years. I loved the rainbow colors. This was before I fully embraced my LGBTQ+ status and wanted as many rainbow colored accessories as I could get.

This yarn is a Regia yarn, in the 'Clown' colorway as far as I know. Regia discontinues and makes new yarn lines so fast, its dizzying and easy to get lost!

The cream colored yarn is from a sock that was ripped apart by bugs. I patched it SO much that I gave up. The holes were appearing faster than I could patch them!

I've decided to salvage the usable yarn, and hold it together with aunt lydias crochet cotton.

(Sock Durability Tip!)

Interestingly enough, the parts of the sock that had the crochet cotton didnt get holes! I noticed this, and began holding some of my sock yarns together with crochet cotton! The ones that I have done this with, whether its commercial yarn or handspun yarn, haven't gotten holes in them! I have sensitive feet too, and they feel comfortable! (I knit stockinette soles to my socks.)

The Rainbow Salvaged socks are almost done, as I have less than a yard left of the rainbow yarn. It's time to switch back to the cream yarn.

As you can see from this sock, I have quite a bunch left to use and unravel. This is the sock that I havent unraveled! 

This is a pic of several of my sad attempts to save the sock. Woven darning with a reinforced edge.

Anyway, I'm measuring the rainbow socks carefully so that I use up all the rainbow yarn evenly. I have tested the cream yarn and am holding it with crochet cotton for durability.

Wish me luck!

-JT

Tiina Lilleaed Shawl, my struggles

I think this is as far as I will get with this yarn and needle combination. 

A piece of lace hasn't been this frustrating for me since I tried making some Herbert Niebling antique doilies. You know, the super complex ones on tiny needles with tiny thread and very precise, long charts? 

But this pattern isnt that. This is... a simple lace chart. It's a beautiful lace chart. A lovely shawl outcome, with lots of stockinette 'rest rows'.

But I struggled every step of the way.

I've been working on this since the end of October, on and off. 

Here's the pattern on ravelry: 

https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/tiina-lilleaed

Here's the designer's blog: http://pitsilisedjutud.blogspot.fi/2015/07/tiina-lilleaed-ehk-koiges-on-suudi.html

this is one of the few times I've had to use lifelines in a lace pattern since I started knitting lace seriously 3 years ago. 

I think my struggle with this pattern comes from several things:

Sleep deprivation due to my work and this time of year

Slippery, knotting rayon yarn

Generic, sticky metal needles.

Im using a cone of 6/18 rayon yarn I got on sale from Webs yarn store. It's very drapey and silky in hand. I think it was meant for weaving. It's not as silky knit up though. 

The yarn refused to slide along the needles. Stitches would pop off the needles. I kept dropping stitches when either tinking or doing the lace stitches. I kept counting incorrectly, even though I counted every time and double checked each row.

I think this yarn, needle and pattern combo arent meant for eachother. I'm also too tired to work super complex (relatively) lace patterns. I've cut the yarn off and I'm starting a different pattern, a simpler one: the Ashton Shawlette. Same needle size, US size 3. Same yarn. I'm already making good progress in it.

I think i need just... a wool yarn for this pattern. I'm too frustrated with it right now but I hope to try it again in the future. I'm leaving the lifelines in and not unraveling it for now.

So long, 

Tiina Lilleaed. Hopefully we'll meet again in the future under better circumstances. 

Jtp/mnr

Crochet Ball Holder, Plate 7 (Crochet Reticule)

 I sometimes start so many projects at once, I can't help it.

I'm making another little 'bag', what Victorians and Edwardians called a thread ball holder. You usually make two sides, and put the ball of thread in there, and then pull the thread tail through the hole. You wear the bag over your wrist while crocheting. It is part of my 'reticule' series. I like making small bags (reticules) that could have been used in the 1800s and early 1900s.

I mostly don't use the hole. I may cover it in needle lace, I don't know!

Anyway, here is the entire pattern. You are not mistaken. There are no pages missing. This is the entirety of the pattern, and the crocheter is meant to derive the pattern from the old, black and white, tiny picture. 😆

This is fairly common for some antique pattern books. They give you the initial instructions and then say 'follow the picture'.

I used a US size 7 hook and size 10 crochet thread.

What I did: I have a 1 inch ring I used. I indeed used the picture as a guide to make up the bag. 

I made 65 sc over the ring, making sure it was divisible by 5. 

I did a row of double crochet around the ring.

All of the chains are chain 5, sc in the next chain. Where the rectangular blocks are, those are 4 dc. The chain supporting the block is 4 ch instead of 5.

After the square block motif is made, it looks like one more plain row is done, and then an increase row is done, and then a plain chain row.

You make the second half just like the first, or find a way to fill in spot where the ring would be. You join with more ch 5 sc stitches.

You then work back and forth in rows using chain 5 to make the strap.

You make 5 or 6 sc around the openings where the strap is.

I can write more detailed instructions later, perhaps. I will definitely update when I have more pictures of my own to share.

-jtp

New Project, 3 cornered Bag (reticule)

Hello again all! I'm starting yet another reticule bag project.

A reticule is basically a small purse women 8n the 1700s, 1800s and early 1900s used to carry small accessories like cosmetics, handkerchiefs, calling cards, and more.

Many of these bags are called 'opera bags' on websites, and this is not incorrect. Many handmade bags like these were used to go to the opera and other evening events, as well as day events.

I like making mine because they are pretty, they're good for holding yarn and projects, and they can hold a cellphone, a card, some cash, and, albeit a small project. Depends on the size!

This new bag is called (on this website) 'A three cornered bag'.

I'm making it with a 1.3mm us size 10 hook and size 20 dmc cebelia cotton. I almost want to make it with size 30 cotton, as the original pattern calls for but I am unsure if it will be too small. I have been making a lot of irish crochet motifs lately so I am well used to the thread size.

Will update with pictures of my work on this reticule!

-jtp

Places to find Vintage Knitting, Crochet and Tatting Patterns

Free Places to find Vintage Patterns

(Will be added to.)

• antiquepatternlibrary.org: Vintage public domain patterns, knitting, crochet, embroidery, tatting, and more.

• https://trove.nla.gov.au/ - An australian newspaper archive, which includes patterns  amongst the newspaper.
• For example, a search for 'knitting pattern' yields this: https://trove.nla.gov.au/result?q=knitting+pattern&l-availability=y%2Ff

Printed Books with Vintage Patterns

• Piecework Magazine
• Knitting Traditions Magazine

Vintage *Style* Patterns

jtp/mnr

'Spanish' tablecloth and Mat, Herbert Niebling Lace

 Happy Holidays and Happy New Year Y'all!

I've been trying to get artwork and day job work and housework done. (In addition to my day job, I create drawings and paintings)

I've also been trying to finish Christmas presents by the 25th. Will show those in a later post.

I just want to share with y'all the German lace knit designer Herbert Niebling. He was active in the early to mid 1900s, and designed hundreds of patterns I believe. They're not without errors, but they are very intricate, and there's a devoted niche following for his patterns.

It is my goal to tackle some of his lace patterns. They're considered some of the most complex lace patterns, and are quite time consuming. His patterns are inspired by flowers and nature, and often call for thread and small wire knitting needles.

Unfortunately... only a few of his patterns are free, and only a few of his patterns are in print in newer magazines. They're hard to find as the old magazines, and must be translated from old German knitting terminology. I do not consider this a hindrance. I consider it 'Challenge Accepted'. 😉

 But the ones that are reproduced... have 1000s of finished knitted objects on Ravelry and across the web. The Lyra pattern, for example.

Here's a free link to one of his patterns, the 'Spanish Tablecloth and Mat'. Its been translated into English.

(Image is from their website and likely the original booklet. I'd like to replace it with my own soon tho.)

https://www.knitting-and.com/crafts-and-needlework/knitting/patterns/doilies/spanish/

I suggest getting the pattern now before it disappears. Patterns on the web have a way of doing that, unfortunately. The Wayback Machine (a website that captures old versions of certain websites) can only do so much.

I tried about a year ago when I was still a beginning lace kniter to make this. I hesitate to say that I 'failed'. Its more like... it was too difficult for me at that experience level. I think I've progressed enough to attempt it again soon. Will update you if I do try it! I definitely have the 'knitting wires' (really fine lace knitting needles) to do it. I have a small collection of antique knitting needles, plus I've purchased sizes US 6/0 to US 2 in knitting needles. (0.75mm to 2.75mm). I have other sizes of course.

Not sure if I will have time to post again before the New Year. If not;

Happy Crafting, and I wish you a safe and healthy New Year!

jtp/mnr

Tin Star Hat - Finished Object

 Oof. I had this yarn lying about for a little while.

This is Lionbrand Wool Ease Thick and Quick in Plum. Its category 6 or super bulky. I have a small stash of Thick and Quick that I want to use to make a thick tunic. I'm pretty 'ample of figure' so I have to heavily calculate with bust and hip shaping. Here's to hoping that I will succeed.

Anyway. That's for another post.

This hat is the Tin Star Hat by Kelly Vu of Vu Knits! Pattern is here.  It took 2 days to finish. A  simple knit that I could have finished in a day, but I have been busy and tired from work this week. I used US size 10, 10.5, and 13. The 13s were plastic. The others bamboo.

I am working on my skills so I can start the Master Knitter program after the holidays. (Its too stressful right now). I have the yarn and reference books ready for it.

But in relation to that, this hat involves the American seed stitch. In the Master Knitter Program by the Knitting Guild Association (http://www.tkga.org/), your seed stitch must be even with no holes. This was a great pattern to practice on. Quick knit, and I could tension the stitches on the tips of my needles like the guild shows in tutorials.

I knit this Continental style, though I usually do 'flicking' in the 'Irish cottage' style. Anything with a lot of knits and purls in rapid succession such as ribbing, seed stitch or moss stitch, its just faster for me to do it continental. Garter stitch, lace and stockinette stitch based patterns, I do them 'flicking' style.

It's a cute hat. I am on the fence if I will make another in larger needles or using a few more stitches. I want to see what I have left after I make my tunic.

jtp/mnr

Open Leaves Stole, Knitted Lace Shawl, Part 1

The Open Leaves Stole (self designed pattern.)

This is coming out lovlier than I thought it would. Let me explain.

I had a little cardigan that just didn't fit me and I didn't like it, and I couldn't find anything to wear it with. I don't have those 1950s dresses of the style you usually wear them with. You know, the ones that sit at your natural waist, and then you put on a semi fitted cardigan to accentuate the waist of the dress. I plan to have some dresses like that one day, but so far... its not gonna happen. 

Here is what's left of the cardigan.

As for another thing, my boobs had grown since I started knitting it and finished. It wouldn't close even if I knitted on a 

The yarn, Naturally Carons Country in...Foliage, (I think?) was discontinued, so this poorly fitting cardigan sat in my stash for a while. Its a multi ply soft 75% acrylic, 20% merino aran weight yarn. 

I looked around for patterns in my ravelry queue. I looked in my knitting magazines. I looked in my knitting books. The only lace pattern that seemed to fit the bill was Vogue Knitting Book's "Open Leaves" lace pattern.

Born was the Open Leaves Knitted Stole.

I cast on 4 edge stitches in total, and repeated the pattern. I started with a size 7 (4.5mm) needle but determined even that was too small, and soon continued with a size 8 (5mm). The density of the fabric is noticeable between the two needle sizes but I plan to block the ever living heck outta this stole. Heavier yarns can take heavier blocking. I'm thinking wet steam blocking.

Why? Multi ply cabled yarns hold their shape a lot moreso than 3 ply, 2 ply, or singles yarn. It takes a little more 'force' to open up those lacy bits and keep them open. I know this from experience.

 We'll see! 1 ply yarn opens up very easily. 2 ply less so. 3 ply takes a bit more stretching.

I prefer to knit (or crochet) my lace to a tight gauge and then have it open up during the blocking process. I like a firm yet drapey fabric.

I cut this yarn so many times, IDK what I was even thinking. HOW AND WHY. Why would I do that back when I was making this yarn into a cardigan? Probably because my stash was a mess and the yarn got tangled. I will have so many ends to weave in at the end of this project. I'm not weaving them in as I go in case I actually decide to unravel THIS project. (I'm praying I won't.)

Here's the back with some of the ends I will have to weave in.... 

This year has been weird in the case of knitting for the holidays. 2020 is weird like that. IDK. So mostly, I've been knitting for myself and charity, only a few items for family that I may post later.

Take care of yourselves.

jtp/mnr

Rainbow Burst, Worsted Weight Wool Handspun Yarn - (For sale)

 I want to take some time to highlight some of my especially striking yarns.

If you haven't realized yet by the listing of the etsy at the top of my page, (LOL), I sell some of my handspun and hand dyed yarns!

I call this colorway and yarn Rainbow Burst.

I call this one Rainbow Burst. I plan on making more like it because I love the colorway. Its a burst of color in a spectrum, and very much my style of yarn craftsmanship. Its listed here: Rainbow Burst, Worsted Weight Handspun Yarn.

In my painting, in my crafting, in my knitting, crochet... I love color, and I love EVERY color. Color bursts from the skein of yarn. My yarns are designed to add a pop of color and life as a small project, or as an accent in a larger project such as a sweater or blanket.

This skein features a lot of blue, a lot of yellow, and a lot of red, and then the intermediate colors where they blend.

Stats:

Worsted weight/ aran weight

US size 6-9 knitting needles.

Check out more yarn, fiber, artwork and more at my etsy shop here! Jtphillipsmnr's Etsy Store

Have a wonderful day, wonderful people! <3