It's called the Mary Stuart collar.
I'm using DMC cebelia size 30 thread with a 1.1mm hook.
I like working antique thread patterns. The problem is, I dont like ruffles. Ruffled fabric is definitely an 1800s fashion! The collar probably is designed to be starched so that the ruffles and lace stand out. However, I dont have the patience to starch many of my patterns. I just wet block them and that's it.
I'm mostly following the spirit of the pattern. In this picture, I am doing a sc along the neck edge to stabilize it. The pattern asks for one more row of shells after this.
The book as of this date is available on Google Books.
See you later!
-BP